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So this has basically been the shittiest week ever in sendaustin’s 2+ year history. It got worse and worse every day, and now it’s friday. We’re not ever kidding. Here’s how it went: The office mascot died. The entire computer system exploded to the tune of several hundred dollars. We smashed our face in trying to be surf goddesses. We found out we were on the fucking B-team. Then it rained. It’s been bad, real bad, Michael Jackson.

Then we watched this movie, and honestly it didn’t help at all, but it is funny. And we’re thankful to have something to post about on this stupid friday.

deadly sincerity

The other day a sickness befell the entire office, so we snuggled up with a ten-year-old issue of National Geographic. There was this line in a random front-o-book piece that made us think of central texas climbing. We can’t remember exactly how it went, but it was something like…

Modern exploration isn’t about seeing places that no one’s ever seen before, but seeing places in ways no one’s seen them before.

it was way more gracefully worded than that, but isn’t that idea nice?

sigh. life rocks.

ps-new header pic by carl antone (ganked from facebook)

backwards in heel hooks

Do you guys have the facebook experience where, after big elections, you end up unfriending or hiding all these people you didn’t know you couldn’t tolerate? Just us? Fine. Unfriended.

All this election bruhaha reminded us that we were suppose to be updating regularly, and that we had something to tell you. Well, actually Tommy has something to tell you, and since he’s a man you’ll probably listen harder anyway…

Central Texas Mountaineers, the group that maintains and puts up new routes for central Texas climbers, is holding an election for President.

Gary Ellis has stepped down after doing an exemplary job of working with the city, county and state parks departments to ensure climbers have access to local walls and are represented when decisions are made about use of public space.

Could you be our next leader? Or know someone who has great ideas for making our climbing community even better?

CTM is taking nominations until Feb 1. You can nominate yourself or someone else, as long as they agree to be nominated and live in Central Texas.

Membership in CTM is not required to submit a nomination or to run, but you must be a member to vote.

A lifetime membership is just $20 and can be done online on the CTM website WWW.CTMrocks.com.

The person elected must join CTM if they are not already a member in order to serve.

Voting will take place online from Feb 2-15.

Send nominations to rona@sbcglobal dot net

Ah-hem. So, if you are eligible to vote, or plan to make yourself such, sendaustin unabashedly urges you to vote for Ann, the awesomest possible choice to lead CTM ever in life. Not counting Gary. Or if Luke runs, he’d be good too. But aside from them, Ann. You know you want to. And she knows you know, and also knows that you know that she knows you know. So there is no way out.

she’d vote for herself, obv.

eastward, ho

Willie Nelson tour bus searched at Border Patrol check point

Not long after Willie Nelson’s El Paso concert last week, a Nelson tour bus was stopped at the U.S. Immigration and Border Patrol station East of El Paso and a citation was given, according to a blog post on Nelson’s official Web site by Nelson’s daughter.

So be sure to leave all contraband with your friends at the daggar before heading back east

don’t let us get us

Lettuce tell you about the worst climbing shirt decision ever, and how we made it no less than three times in front of people.

We thought, oh cool! Pink! It’ll be pretty! Well, it’s not. It completely sucks.

Instance uno: German Klettern guy takes this almost not horrible picture:

Yup. Crankin away, snazzy heel hook and all on the hardest gd boulder problem in the country, and el pink shirt matches the rocks, and the floor, and the skin, and basically turns this into a picture of a pair of shoes, some black hot pants and a little pile of hair. Thanks for nothing, pink shirt.

Here it is at erock, not doing anyone any favors. (This arete problem is super fun though, and Brandon took this otherwise lovely photo):

And then there’s the last straw:

Practically busting a nip on the warm up! It’s not, it’s not (and thanks for investigating, Erik!!), but no shirt that threatens nipple in such a manner can be allowed to stay.

Look, there are dozens of shirts here, and they’re all here for the right reasons. To look good in photos, and to cover nipples. We’ve never had to deal with anything like this here before, but we’re going to have to ask this shirt to pack it in and leave the mansion, like, tonight.

SO: Available for FREE: Horrible, whorely pink shirt. Small. Plunging neckline. Go to McKinney and ask for the skank with the shirt.

(pics by steffen, brandon, andy & the bachelor)

thousands a day

It should say something about us that we’re about to offer a whole post about the spam comments on another website. Granted, it might also say something that all we could find to talk about from a huge climbing news website was the spam comments.  It’s pretty much the dawn of  a new era of loserhood all around, no? Enough self-analysis! On with the (shit)show…

If you or a loved one has ever gone down the rabbit hole that is “earn money at home” internet scams, and wondered something like “hey, if I followed this to the letter, gave them all my credit card info and clicked a million links and told 50 friends to do the same, what exactly the cuss off would I end up doing?”

Well friend, you’d probably end up doing something like this:

Making sure R&I is raped nightly with fake automatically generated spam comments, crowded with links to places like Sunglass Hut and Hooters to increase their googleability. This would be your life. So good luck, suckass. Get some comment spam blockerage going on, and head to the post office to re-send that money order so we can pay a small bribe, for this is all that stands betwixt you and 2 percent of our royal nigerian fortune….

mari has a boyfriend

etc and so forth….

All the parks are more expensive now. Did you see that McK is like $5 for a day pass? Wasn’t it 4 last year? Wild.

Reimers is more expensive too now, and no more dogs off leashes. “For cereal” this time, we are told.

Blaine got a really pretty green and white boat with a post-1997 motor known as “the cheater.”

But if you always wanted a handsome bastard boat with several old crotchety motors, we heard the bastard craft is on the block. Is that kinda depressing? No? Just us then? Fine.

One of Vinny’s videos made the top ten list of something.

Gary stepped down as president forever of ctm. Now they need a new president.

And also, RRCC elections time is here. Nominate yourself or someone else if you want them to take a hand in dealing with bolting and route development and access and stuff at the north shore section of Reimers. Nominations should be sent to blackwell4@gmail.com

That’s basically it.

Oh, and we’re all in love and getting married. Or moving. Or quitting. Or moving again. Not sure. Law school?

Have you ever read the hilarious Netflicks reviews for the climbing films of a guy called Dusatko?

We’ve never seen any of them, but dude, a lot of people really don’t like them. And as longtime connoisseurs of a finely aged haterade, we find that more interesting than mediocre pebble wrestlin porn. Behold, the Netflicks reviews of these, apparently not so great, climbing movies….

There’s one about women’s lib or something, and it’s called “A Day in the Life” of a women’s libber.  The cover looks like this:

Here’s what people said (We can’t get a decent link working because you have to logged into your netflicks to read them):
There are great films, mediocre films, poor films and just plain bad films. This climbing / bouldering / blundering attempt is sadly a bad film. We the viewing public are still left waiting on a great climbing film; This certainly wasn’t it.

Yes, these women are great climbers, but its probably not worth enduring the obnoxious music, poor production, and the trite “you go girl” message to see this footage.

The music sounded like bad porn music and the climbers’ voiceovers were painful at times to listen to.

Oh, another annoying thing was the way the camera kept cutting away from a perfectly good video climbing sequence into black and white stills in the middle of the sequence. So pointless. The thing was, the stills were of the same sequence, so it’s not like we were getting a different angle or something. Just really lame.

I thought maybe this had lackluster reviews because they were from non-climbers… but as a woman that climbs, I have to say this just isn’t that good.

Its better if you mute the sound to avoid the 90s club music.

Well wow. But then of course they’re not all bad. According to someone on Amazon this movie is A must have for ALL woman!

Moving on. There’s another one called Soul Cal. It looks, um, well just look…


Although there are some really good boulder problems represented, this video sucks.

Skip this DVD and rent “Best of the West” to see what bouldering videos SHOULD be like. DJ Revolution’s soundtrack is so frenetic and annoying that it’s advisable to mute your TV while watching this DVD.

If you should choose to rent this keep it on mute the whole time.

Okey Doke. There’s also “Inertia” and  “Inertia 2″ which seem to rent together on Netflicks. (These are all, btw, super old like 2003-5, but the reviews are contemporary.)

I’m a rock climber. However, I don’t like incessant punk music, and I don’t ride a skateboard, both of which are featured in this video. The video quality is quite low, and there is poor use of lighting (many scenes where light parts are blown out, while underhangs are in muddy darkness), and the framing doesn’t really showcase the climbs nor the technique.


I am not entertained by teenage and early 20’s foolishness. If you do rent it keep the volume low, since they do not really say anything worth hearing and keep the remote close and your finger on the fast forward button.

Worse climbing movie I’ve ever seen. Music was lame, footage was crappy, editing was horrible. No locations, sometimes grades and names. Footage would start in the middle of climb and end before a top out? Plus all the random non-climbing scenes were useless. I wanted to be motivated to get out and climb but this movie was not the thing to do it.

This was by far the worst climbing video I’ve seen.

I also didn’t like the music.

This is the worst climbing video I have ever seen. The video quality is terrible and the music is the awful.

The only redeaming clips were of Randy Leavitt on ‘Book of Hate’ and Josune Bezeriatu on some Spanish sport route. Otherwise, a complete waste of time.

This video totally sucks. The only redeeming quality is the undeniable athleticism of the climbers. Bad video, idiotic skateboading, juvenile jackass contests…I could go on but I would waste more time on a video that was a waste of time in the first place.

Wow just wow, have you ever in your life been as unamused by anything as the people watching these videos?

So, that’s it. Pretty intense, yeah?

And, scene.

If they ever get around to making that epic Lynn Hill biopic, a tale of diminutive stature and long hair and sports greatness, we think it’s pretty obvious that Sarah Jessica Parker should play the lead in her “post-age 35″ scenes….

Obviously Hill boasts about a thousand times the hotness of SJP, but we think it’ll work.

And speaking of biographies of retardedly famous lady climbers, we spent some time at an airport recently, and read the Steph Davis book, which has a cool title, a very pretty cover and a unique, small binding.

Alas, friends, it is not good. It promises a reflective survey of a life devoted to being gorgeous, having boyfriends, climbing, and being smart. Sadly, but nbd because it’s just time, it’s a super self-conscious set of barely reworked reprints of magazine articles that hang together in a disjointed, slap-dash kinda way. It seems like the life o’ Steph Davis could make for a story with passion and romance and interesting self-analysis. The Lynn Hill book is pretty good that way, lots of frankness about past loves and hard climbing and being married and living in, ya know, FRANCE.

So what’s the deal with a Steph Davis book fail? Rush job? Marketing scheme to try and milk a few bucks out of the dying paper book world (read it on Kindle?). But that cool title, “High Infatuation, a climbers guide to love and glory” was pretty much designed to appeal to hyper-analytical young women who are, of course, in charge of how the world’s disposable income is dispersed. Whatever. Whyever it’s here, it’s not good. We’d offer a copy free to caller number 1, but we left it on a plane.

Oh, and if they make a Steph Davis biopic, we’re thinking Jennifer Garner…

Well it’s Tuesday, and that’s as good a day as any to stage a comeback and dig into this pile of blogging gold we’ve been piling up. We’ll take piece by piece at a time so that the volume of posts will be high, and no one will notice that we haven’t been around.

Like that nice gift daddy brought you to distract you from the fact that he hasn’t been home in two months.

Now givvus a hug! Let’s get started…

In pretty much every area of our lives other than rock climbing, we feel guilty and foolish and failure-y for not living in New York. Because really, what are trying to do? There’s nothing going on anywhere except New York. Anything that seems like it might be cool is just pseudo New York stuff. It’s a hard life, and we graciously accept your sympathy, thank you.

On what might seem like an unrelated note, do you guys know that guy Wallace who started the gym a hundred years ago and kind of looks like a more cletusish version of coco?

Anyway, he has a new boyfriend from New York City. And there are pictures…

Also, are you guys friends with Brooklyn Boulders, the long awaited finally here totally co-operative (ew) nyc climbing gym? No kids parties? Etc? Friend them on facebook, and visit when you visit. It’s fun.

Sorry for the long absence, but mommy just can’t look at you guys right now.

SendAustin: What’s with chicks being all know-it-all-y all the gd time? Are we like that? Smack us next time we’re like that.

SendAustin: Loves to observe how when the days grow short and nights cool, or when plants are stressed by drought, deciduous trees decrease chlorophyll pigment production allowing other pigments present in the leaf to become apparent, resulting in fall color. Just saying. It’s called photosynthesis, and we know a lot about it. FTW.

SendAustin: 1020 park bench gawking hotness. 1076 shindagger makeout room.

SendAustin: die die die die

SendAustin: blogging is stupid. we quit. from now on, bouldering only.

SendAustin: we are pretty much the toughest and best looking bouldering possee within a 6-foot radius of this bench.

SendAustin: Ok now it’s a 3-foot radius. Stay back! Stay back!

SendAustin: Nevermind we suck.

SendAustin: comment dit on “we dig on the tiny mean lookin’ one” en francais?

SendAustin: you know that song “i come alive in the nighttime”? We do not relate to that song. It might not be a song at all, but a lyric to a Niel Diamond song.

SendAustin: try to find the words to describe this blog without being disrespectful.

SendAustin: thank you for being a friend. travel down the road and back again. your <3 is true, you’re a pal and a confidant. And if you threw a party? Invited everyone you knew? Well you would see, the biggest gift would be from us and the card attached would say “thank you for being a friend.” unless we were out of town and unable to come to your party, in which case nevermind and thanks for nothing.

Cody Cockass is in it so its totally valid.

more about "Nick Duttle in the Park on Vimeo", posted with vodpod

The old way of distributing photos is tired. All that waiting for a gallery update, months going by, who the hell is that in there omg we broke up like a year ago and there we are snuggling grooooosssssssss shit phasing out. Now people want to see their pictures the next day. So merrick’s blogging, to keep up with the times.

 

Bienvenidos a the future, merrickales.

 

FIVE

that big shipping container thing and trailer with signs that say “climbing gear” out in the hood next to hueco? It’s this thing called thecrashpad.biz, and they sell Metolius stuff at a slight discount. We suppose they stand to make a killing, or at least unload a few of those green tri-fold pads. All anyone around here has to say about it is “That land was for sale this summer. Hmh.”

 

Anyway, they have no cool clothes or anything, just tape and signs that say “Climbing Gear.” Lotsa signs.

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