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You mean you didn’t catch the Canadian Bouldering Championship Women’s Final on the drtopo youtube channel? Drag for you. Here are the highlights from the three-part ouvre, and believe you-us, it was a wild event. And isn’t that always the case when shit goes down in Montreal?

 

First of all, there was this problem that we didn’t watch long enough to see anyone send. It had a huge blue scrotum on it. The ponytailed competitors try to tame the bloated, scrotal beast, but alas, yeah, the big blue ball was cruel joke several times over.

 

Scrotal = the greatest adjective of the day.

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Around minute 4:03, Sasha Digimonion goes up, and the Canadian hosts snark that she’s “from the states.” We have no idea if that’s true and could care less. Still, funny that they say it.

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Even moreso because in part three, when Digimon goes up again, the female announcer remarks that she “seems to lose a piece of clothing” with each round.

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US indoor bouldering girls simply cannot be stopped from taking all their gd clothes off every time they see a fuckin heap of colorful plastic and a camera. Although to put it that way,  we are in no position to judge.

 

And that’s how shit went down at the Canadian Bouldering Championships. You’re welcome. Scrotal.

 

ps – a bunch of signs went up overnight in the hood next to the hueco, and they say “Climbing Gear” and lead to a trailer and a truck – like a big shipping truck. We suspect that shopping is involved, and promise to investigate further once the truck is gone, and if the trailer isn’t too creepy.

 

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via

& thanx r

To Do List

1. Do not blow up ellen’s trailer. (Discuss with AO)

2. Determine formula for Roger’s Park soakedness using inches and duration of rain, hours of wind since rain, speed of wind, and other factors not yet thought of.

3. Decide if it’s too stupid to bring a few pairs of stupidly sexy underwear on a climbing trip just to avoid having to do laundry very often. Proceed accordingly.

4. Create The Sendaustin of Climbing 2010 Calendar, to celebrate the grace and beauty of atx chossbucklers.

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5. Deal with this crap:

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6. Consider preventative measures

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7. Lunch with Rupesh.

8. Write a post about horses. Do climbers typically hate/fear horses?

8b. Reconsider horse post idea. Might be stupid.

8c. Try to memorize how french grades, V-grades, and Yosemite grades match up. (repeatedly ask clayton and/or vinny)

8d. Become friends with that guy “Andy.”

9. Write post about those so-cal climbing videos that get hilariously bad reviews on netflix.

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10. Follow up with AO on “do not explode” guidelines.

11. Pack shit.

11b. Insult friends/strangers.

12. Locate harmonica.

13. Bail.

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However, this transformation was also associated with the frustration of realizing how limited the climbing opportunities (both indoors and outdoors) were in central Texas.

- random shoe sponsored chick on fiveten.com

We got us a’hold of Conrad’s video from the Gripper. Which he gave a title, but which we have re-christened, Conrad Goes a’bouldrin wit da femaleses. Because it’s mostly him and females bouldering. But no for real, it’s pretty good stuff. Shadow puppets, etc.

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GG B&W&C

The Granite Gripper comp rocked.

Molly summarily spanked the shit out of sendaustin.

Katie gave an awesome, super honest glimpse into her life in a van down by the wall in Yosemite.

And more stuff happened too, but first, pictures of people by Merrickales. Merrick is working on his portrait taking, so let’s all be super encouraging and make good face for him all the time. K? K.

Here’s Katie looking all dramatic, lady of the night with a rack – style.

And here’s Shelly, who ranted harder on her blog than we ever could over the decline of manners in this godforsaken hell hole country….

Indeed.

Brandon won the men’s advanced bouldering division AND the endurance challenge. ‘Twas a machine.

Here are Barry, Erin, and Beth.We just like these faces.

Nice yeah? Yeah.

pic by brandon. is it cool if we call you b-dog?

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On Saturday after the Gripper comp, and after dinner, Katie Lambert’s gonna show slides and give a little talk about her life as a full time climber in Yosemite. We’re psyched. She’ll put on a good show. It’ll go something like this:

Hey folks I’m Katie, I used to coach the arg team, but now I crush full time at the center of the classical rock climbing universe. I am sooo-oo-o cute!

Cya there!!

Finally, justification for ignoring the whole “after a hard workout, cool down with some moderate bouldering” thing. We always knew that was pointless, because it was so boring. And now the Times, and a scientist at UT Austin says it probably is, too.

The problem, says Hirofumi Tanaka, an exercise physiologist at the University of Texas, Austin, is that there is pretty much no science behind the cool-down advice.

The cool-down, Dr. Tanaka said, “is an understudied topic.”

”Everyone thinks it’s an established fact,” he added, “so they don’t study it.”

Hm. Sounds like the whole “microfractures in dropped carabiners that lead to biners falling apart” nonsense that everyone believes but is actually a total lie, much like the folklore that was  90’s arson investigation.

The Times story goes on to refute another hunk of bullshit that crowds many otherwise perfectly useful training guides

The idea of the cool-down seems to have originated with a popular theory — now known to be wrong — that muscles become sore after exercise because they accumulate lactic acid. In fact, lactic acid is a fuel. It’s good to generate lactic acid, it’s a normal part of exercise, and it has nothing to do with muscle soreness. But the lactic acid theory led to the notion that by slowly reducing the intensity of your workout you can give lactic acid a chance to dissipate.

Yet, Dr. Foster said, even though scientists know the lactic acid theory is wrong, it remains entrenched in the public’s mind.

And later reiterated that

As far as muscle soreness goes, cooling down doesn’t do anything to alleviate it, Dr. Tanaka said. And there is no physiological reason why it should.

Nice.

And while we’re on the subject of shit we do that’s supposedly bad for training but that seems to be harmless, if not making us stronger, Athleta (pretty clothes) has an article about how to use shots of caffeine to increase performance. They suggest laying off for a while so you get a better high when it counts.

Caffeine is one of the few legal performance-enhancing substances. During training, try using a caffeinated product and see whether you notice a difference. Studies are showing that caffeine improves endurance by changing our interpretation of pain and by increasing mental acuity. We develop a caffeine tolerance, so you could consider tapering your caffeine intake in the week before a race (don’t cut it out cold turkey or you’ll be miserable), so that you receive more of a boost from the caffeine you ingest during the race.

Some of us like a diet coke in the car, or maybe a coffee in the evening.

Some people choke down Red Bull in the afternoon, but we think that shit tastes like a radiator fluid/dip spit/mountain dew cocktail. With extra cock. (This is the part of the post where, if we were a dorky magazine trying to understand how “blogging” can help us “interact with readers,” because this “social networking thing” is key to our “brand strategy,” we’d say “What’s your favorite way to caffeinate mid-sesh? Post it up in the comments!” But we don’t care what you do, and you are the only person who reads your inane comments anyway.)

And speaking of extra cock, look at these men’s jeans with a padded crotch, for an “enhanced profile.” So freaky. So imagine you’re making out with a boy, and you decide to, ya know, explore. Imagine that there you find a bunch of crotch padding.

Imagine that you crack up and fall off of the sofa/car hood/park bench/pedicab. Then imagine the text message you send to your five bff’s as you flee, adjusting your top.

Vinny, this video is really old news. Are you about to send out a facebook alert that Merrick and Christen got married? Or that Ted Kennedy died? This is not the cutting edge of interweb memes that we deal in. We’re only putting it up because our love knows no logic. And because there are surprise flecks of coconut in this chocolate bar. Yum.  – Ed.

pretty people.

So, with no sa staff or man harem members present, Jennie and Gus picked up the slack as pointed examples of hotness during this weekend’s cluster migration to hueco….

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omg does jennie have shoulder frecklage?

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Loving. No wonder she always seems so adorb, that sneaky minx.

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And this is totally random, but when we glanced at this next shot we thought, ‘hey is ellen sitting with lisa rands?’.

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It’s Hannar tho. Just a weird angle or something. But doesn’t she look like lisa rands for a second there?

Want = big cute graphic chalk bag.

So, we’ve been watching every episode ever of Laguna Beach, and we keep catching glimpses of neat rocks, because it’s a really boring show about idiot teenagers kissing each others boyfriends.We can’t stop watching, though, because a new episode of The Hills isn’t on until tomorrow night.

This tard became some asshat’s gf after he and this other twit broke up. Look at those underclingy pockets back there!

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The gang went on a trip to catalina, which is a really pretty island of golf carts, bears and rich people. They took a yaght. This one girl couldn’t go because there were gonna be boys but no parents.

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Ok this one is totally chossmanktard, obv, but it is demonstrative of what else could be nearby, maybe. In this scene, this blond bitch you can’t see in this shot did something that irritated that brown headed girl, and the brown haired girl came to hash it out with her. Seriously, when was the last time you had to hash out something with someone? If your feelings about someone in your life are causing you undue mental duress, fer christ sake, stop talking to them!

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Enjoy, or not, if you have a lot of time. Listen for the hilarious over-dubs.

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Isn’t it such a good feeling to see other people do the kinda shit you do but way smarter and funnier, and get in more trouble for it? Yum!

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So this kid (not ^ that ^ one, obv) thought everyone at his school was stupid for wandering the halls in North Face gear, so he created the South Butt line.

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He got a real live ‘cease and desist’ letter from the North Face. If only we could piss of someone that competent that much. Remember when that slanket free solo guy was all “cease and desist” to that rapper guy who rapped about how lame he was for soloing that arch thing? That was a pretty funny bit o drama. Anyway, here’s our favorite fantasy rip on the North Face (which, we totally agree, is really dorky to go around wearing in school or the urban environment.)

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Hope everyone had a kickass time wherever you went this past week/end. We sure had us a fuck off blast here in Austin. In the rain. A bunch of football goons crowded the street, and all the weather reports lied, it was rainy and cold and we all just snuggled up on the sofa and thought about pilates.

BUT, we also got a chance to go to the Harker Heights rock gym. Ya know, Harker Heights? About 15 miles past Belton?

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Yeah, we did it. Again. Here is what we saw:

The most perfect example of a HOT N00B ever. We were too scared to sneak a picture, but here’s the deal:

The hot: 5′9-10ish, straight brown hair that was almost shaggy but not. Kind of like, um, shit who do we know with hair like that? Ok it was sort of like coco’s, but thicker, more shaggy, and more surf-hot than prep-hot. He was kinda tan, big nose, scruffy face (with an unfortunate goatee-like growth pattern), hw/p, cute smile, and coulda been anywhere from 24 to 34 (godfuckinwilling).

The n00b: So he walks in and laces up a pair of those red 5.10 Coyotes, and makes a couple of “climbery” looking moves on a V0 before falling. So cute. Defeated but not for long, hot n00b slips on a harness and jumps on an autobelay which, if you don’t know, is like a big metal cord that carries you up a route without needing a live belayer. It’s like sport climbing for the lonely. Or perpetually alienated – whatever is your pleasure.

Later hot n00b resumed bouldering with, wait for it, the harness still on. Then he wandered around the gym in his Coyotes, and might have kinda checked us out while we worked a project with an eleven-year-old.

And that eleven-year-old provided the birthday weekend quote to end all quotes:

I do 5 sports right now, but jujitsu is my favorite. Climbing second, but mostly I just campus. My biggest campusing accomplishment is the 45 degree wall, on crimps. Well, almost all crimps. My fingers get sore when I do crimps too much. I’m just coming back from an arm injury, and last year I hurt my lower back and had to have a chiropractor put it back in place. I’m almost 12, but I have the body of a 30-year-old man. I love the Beatles. I listen to them every day. My sister hates me.

Ouch. Sendaustin out.

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